Traveling to Hawaii with a Service Dog

Aloha, my virtual ohana!!

If you can tell from my greeting, I have been vacationing in Hawaii with my girl!  Although I’ve definitely had to work since I’m a Service Dog, I have had my fair share of vacation time with plenty of frolicking in the turquoise waves.

My girl notoriously says that preparing for our trip to Hawaii was more stressful than her fall term finals, and I believe her!  We had to do a lot to prepare to make sure that I could come along with her and wouldn’t have to spend the vacation in quarantine.  Because traveling to Hawaii is not like traveling with a Service Dog to any other state, I thought I’d provide an overview of how to travel to Hawaii with a Service Dog for anyone else who might find this useful, especially since the requirements for a Service Dog entering Hawaii are slightly different from a pet entering Hawaii.  Of course, I am just a dog and am not the definitive authority on Hawaii quarantine protocols.  For the most accurate and up-to-date information, you’ll find what you need on the Hawaii Department of Agriculture’s website, and you can email HDOA with any questions you have — and they’re really good at replying super quickly!

Here’s a short list of the paperwork you’ll need:

  1. Current rabies vaccination more than 90 days before arrival (send this information to Hawaii ahead of time)
  2. Pass the OIE-FAVN rabies test 120 days before arrival (send this information to Hawaii ahead of time)
  3. Flight and location information (send this information to Hawaii ahead of time)
  4. List of tasks that your Service Dog has been trained to perform for you
  5. Health certificate given within 30 days of arrival (take this with you to Hawaii)
  6. Treatment with an approved product designed to kill ticks within 14 days of arrival (take this with you to Hawaii)

Although HDOA accepts documents through snail mail, I would recommend faxing them the necessary documents so that you don’t run the risk of the documents getting lost in the mail or taking longer to arrive than intended (my girl once sent her older sister a card in middle school that didn’t arrive until high school).  Anything that you need to send ahead of time can be faxed to HDOA at 1-808-483-7161 using any number of free online fax resources, including MyFax, GotFreeFax, or FaxZero (all of these were recommended by HDOA, and none of these require the sender to have a physical fax machine, just an email address).  However, for all the documentation that you need to fax ahead of time, I highly recommend that you bring a physical copy with you as well because you can never be too prepared!

Four Months before Arrival

More than 120 days before your arrival, have your vet perform an OIE-FAVN test, run by Kansas State University.  KSU must have received your dog’s blood sample at least 120 days before your arrival.  Your dog will need a microchip in order to process the blood sample and must be at least 12 months old for the test to be run.  Results needs to be greater than or equal to 0.5 IU/mL in order for your dog to be released in Hawaii.  The good news is that once you take this test, the results are valid for three years! (so if you want to plan another trip to Hawaii in the next 36 months…)  Although the results should be sent directly from KSU to Hawaii, a copy should also be sent to your vet, so I highly recommend getting a copy of the results from your vet to send to HDOA if you ask and find out that they have not received it, and also just to have on hand at the airport because it never hurts to have too many copies of all the necessary documents!

Three Months before Arrival

More than 90 days before your arrival should be the date of your dog’s most recent rabies shot.  Rabies shots are usually good for a few years, so this may not be an issue for you, unless your dog received an annual shot for their last vaccination.  However, if your dog’s rabies shot is nearing its expiration date, I highly recommend getting the shot done more than 90 days in advance of your arrival in Hawaii.  The state of Hawaii has never had an incident of rabies, so HDOA is very strict about rabies protocol for animals entering the state.  Having more protection, then, is definitely a good way to play it safe!

Two Weeks before Arrival

Within 14 days of your arrival, you should have an appointment with your vet so that they can give your dog a health certificate and treat your dog with a product containing Fipronil.  The certificate must be issued not more than 30 days of your arrival, and it must state that your dog was treated with a product containing Fipronil or a similar product labeled to kill ticks (I take Bravecto every three months to kill ticks and fleas, and a dose of Bravecto within 14 days of arrival is sufficient to meet this requirement).  Ask your vet to double-check that the product that your dog is being given contains Fipronil.  Your dog’s rabies information, including vaccine name, lot/serial number, expiration date, vaccination date, and booster interval, must be included on the certificate.  A valid health certificate is required for each entry into Hawaii.  And just a note, if your Service Dog does not pass the health certificate, then you might have bigger problems than just not being able travel to Hawaii since you’re working a sick dog.  You can fax the health certificate beforehand if you would like (my girl and I did, just to be safe), but you can also bring it with you physically to Hawaii.

One Week before Arrival

This is not required, but 7 days or more before your arrival, feel free to call the Rabies Quarantine Branch to have them meet you in the terminal and have your process go more quickly, as long as you’re arriving between 8 am and 4 pm.  My girl and I arrived at 9 pm, so we did not do this option.  However, a faster process is definitely helpful!

One Day before Arrival

At least 24 hours before your arrival, send the Rabies Quarantine Branch information regarding your flights and where you will be staying in Hawaii.  This information can be faxed.

Day of Travel and Arrival

Your Service Dog must be traveling with you (the disabled handler) upon arrival in Hawaii.  When you arrive, you must bring your dog to the Airport Animal Quarantine Holding Facility, where your documents will be verified and your dog will be examined for external parasites.  After you’re approved, you’re free to go and start your vacation!  And once in Hawaii, a handler with a Service Dog has the same rights as in any other state, thanks to the Americans with Disabilities Act.

Since this all requires a lot of planning in advance, I highly recommend mapping out your timeline about six months before your trip so that you make sure you can check off everything on your list and do everything correctly.  Leaving plans until the last minute will only make the process more stressful!  Communication with HDOA will make the entire process go more smoothly.  When I stopped by the quarantine facility at the airport, my examination and verification process took not more than ten minutes because all the paperwork had been completed and sent to HDOA ahead of time.  It was quick and painless! (although I was convinced that I was at the vet and acted very sheepish, whoops!)


I’m very happy that I got to go to Hawaii with my girl! (Photo shows Kelsie sitting on a beach while wearing a purple lei, and she’s “smiling” at the camera.)


Best of luck on your adventures!

Kelsie Iris
Like my content? Buy me a dog treat!
Also, check out these other posts of mine:
Service Dog team etiquette (particularly apropos after this post!)
Don’t distract Service Dogs
Spoon Theory
Confused? See my terms and abbreviations

Service Dogs and Boobs – A Loving Repost of the Complete Guide


Photo shows Kelsie squinting (from a camera flash) while wearing a white and mint-colored bra around her chest.

This is a complete copy-and-paste of a post from The Girl Upstairs, because I want to immortalize her words just in case her post ever gets deleted since I think her comparison is absolutely brilliant, so I take absolutely no credit whatsoever for her fabulous ideas and turns of phrase.  Without any further ado:

I will be the first to admit that I’ve had some truly awkward moments with my service dog- having her crawl into the stall next to mine in a public bathroom; cleaning mounds of dog puke out of the back seat of my mother’s car less than a week after I got her; trying to shuffle people around me on the sidewalk because she decided to poop in the center of the walkway and then having to explain why I was late for class; trying to convince someone that it really was the dog who farted, in a public space of course, and yes I know it smells terrible; having people give me strange looks in a movie theater when they hear a loud and unexpected voice whisper, “Get back here! You do not need to go on a popcorn odyssey!” As awkward as these moments may be for me, none of them are as awkward as encountering someone who doesn’t know how to behave around a service dog.
Now, before I get into the do’s and don’ts of service dog etiquette, there is a word that I am going to repeat over and over again until it is no longer uncomfortable for all of you lovely people out there to read. Is everyone ready? Here we go:
I hope that helped.
Now that we have that out of the way, hopefully we can continue without this being too uncomfortable for anyone.
There are certain rules that one should adhere to when around a service dog that is not their own so that the dog can work the most efficiently, but instead of asking everyone out there to memorize a list of rules (which I know no one will do), I’m going to give you a simple rule-of-thumb that will make service dog etiquette easier than you could have ever thought possible. This will change your perspective on life. Are you ready?
Treat the service dog like a boob.
I’m serious. That’s it. That’s all you have to remember.

There are certain things that no person should or would (hopefully) ever do in regards to boobs. The following is a list of things that if you ever said or did any of them, you would earn yourself a well deserved slap.

“Look at that girl’s boobs! *points* Hey, everybody! That girl has boobs!”
“Am I allowed to sit next to you? I don’t want your boobs to bite me or anything. Maybe I should just sit on the other side of the room…”

“Can I touch your boobies!?”

“Why do you have to have those boobs with you? I’m just not so sure they’re necessary.”
“BOOBIES!! *grabs without permission*”
“Are your boobs aggressive? Do they bite?”
“I just don’t know how I feel about letting someone with boobs in here. It’s just unsanitary, you know? You understand, right?”

“Hi, little boobies! I’ve got a treat for you! You want a treat, little boobies?”

“Are you sure your boobs are real? You aren’t blind or in a wheelchair. How do I know you don’t have fake boobs? Do you have paperwork proving that they’re real boobs?”
“Are your boobs going to behave themselves? I don’t want any disruptions.”
“Look, honey! That girl has boobies! Go pet her boobies! What? What do you mean my kid can’t pet your boobs? That’s so rude of you!”
“Are your boobs going to be able to handle this situation? They aren’t going to get scared and freak out, are they?”
“How dare you have boobs when there’s nothing wrong with you! There is a disabled veteran out there that served our country that actually deserves to have those boobs, and needs those boobs, and you took those boobs away from them! You should be ashamed of yourself!”
“I know it’s none of my business, but why do you have boobs?”
“Why is that girl allowed to have boobs in here! I want boobs too!”
As humorous as all of this is, it is actually a genuine problem for people like me who have a legitimate service dog for an invisible illness. Replace the words “boobs” and “boobies” with “dog,” “service dog,” and “puppy,” and you will have a list of actual comments people have made to me- most of them by complete strangers who have never seen me before in their lives, and who began their conversation with me this way.
Please don’t be the ignorant individual who makes comments like these, about boobs or service dogs. People who have a disability already feel like they stick out like a sore thumb. We know we are different. We are aware that we have a walking, fuzzy billboard saying that something is wrong with us. It will not kill you to not know what is wrong with us, nor will it kill you if you don’t pet our service dogs. Going out into

public is already uncomfortable enough without having a random stranger stare, gawk, point at us, chase us, or make rude comments.

So remember, if you aren’t sure if you should do something around a service dog, or say something to the dog’s handler, just ask yourself, “Would I do that to/say that about someone’s boobs?”

Or better yet, just ignore the dog altogether and let it do its job. After all, that’s why it’s there.



Thanks for reading!

Kelsie Iris
Check out these other posts of mine:
Service Dog team etiquette (particularly apropos after this post!)
Don’t distract Service Dogs
Spoon Theory
Confused? See my terms and abbreviations
Like my content? Buy me a dog treat!

How I Help My Girl as a Psychiatric Service Dog

A Psychiatric Service Dog (PSD) helps a handler who is legally disabled by one or more mental health problems.  First, please note that my girl and I do not use the terms “mental illness” or “psychological disorder” because we personally do not believe in perpetuating these terms.  My girl and I have taken enough neuroscience, biology, and psychology classes to believe that disorders usually classified as psychological are actually biological or neurological in nature.  For example, most people would easily classify Parkinson’s as neurological, and yet many of the pathways and neurological underpinnings of Parkinson’s are also shared by disorders that most people automatically classify as “psychological.”  And if diabetes is an inability to produce insulin appropriately and depression is an inability to produce serotonin appropriately, shouldn’t we classify both of them as “chemical disorders,” rather than one as a physical illness and one as a mental illness?  (Of course, this is vastly simplified both disorders, but you can see my point.)  The more research reveals about so-called “psychological” disorders, the more we find biological underpinnings that explain these illnesses.  The so-called “mental” aspects of these illnesses are actually biologically derived, just like any other physical health problem.  My girl and I believe that part of the stigma of mental health problems comes from labels that imply that these illnesses are “all in your head,” and through avoiding potentially harmful labels, we hope to decrease that stigma as much as possible.

Although I am usually very open about my girl’s health problems and struggles, mental health problems can be incredibly personal in nature, especially since they are often associated with difficult moments in an individual’s life, so at this time, I’m not going to share her specific diagnoses.  However, I will at least say that she has depression and anxiety, but please remember that these are general terms for her problems, not the technical terms used by the medical community for her diagnoses.

As a psychiatric service dog, I primarily — or, at least, most overtly — help my girl with her anxiety disorders.  My girl gets panic attacks, but she experiences two “kinds” of panic attacks: “twitchy” panic attacks, which probably fit most people’s idea of what a panic attack looks like and are characterized by nervous ticks and other “stereotypical” anxious responses, and “paralyzed” panic attacks, which more resemble a catatonic state and are characterized by a “frozen” countenance and a kind of “dissociation” from the surroundings.

I can alert my girl to rising anxiety and impending panic attacks by making her aware of behaviours or chemical changes in her body that indicate increased anxiety or panic.  Most of the time, these anxiety indicators are associated with her “twitchy” panic attacks, so I am better able to alert her to that kind of panic attack compared to her “paralyzed” panic attacks.  During or immediately before a “twitchy” panic attack, my girl often does nervous scratching, where she will scratch at herself until she bleeds, usually without being conscious of what she’s doing.  I have been trained to paw at her, particularly at her scratching hand, in order to interrupt the behaviour (a task sometimes referred to as “interruption of self-mutilation”).  Pawing at my girl also serves to alert her to a panic attack that is occurring or about to occur so that the can take steps to avoid it or dissipate it through removing herself from a stressful situation, having me give her Deep Pressure Therapy (DPT), taking medication, or pursuing other strategies.  My girl also often does hand shaking or hand fidgeting during an anxious episode or when her anxiety is rising.  Some might classify this behaviour as a kind of stimming behaviour, but regardless of what you call it, I notice when my girl starts to do her anxious hand shaking, which she often doesn’t realize she’s doing due to her anxious mindset.  Like with the nervous scratching, I will paw at my girl in order to draw her attention to the anxious behaviour and to alert her to her rising anxiety so that she can respond to it to prevent it from coming a full panic attack, even though the hand fidgeting itself is not harmful by itself.  I have even started to pick up on foot bouncing, which my girl does not do as often but frequently does in conjunction with her scratching or hand flapping.


This is a picture of me doing a paw alert.  As you can see, I hit my girl with one paw while looking directly at her so that she knows I’m trying to communicate with her.

Because anxiety and panic attacks are associated with elevated cortisol levels and increased heart rate, I can also pick up on changes in cortisol and heart rate in my girl and will paw at her to indicate that she should respond to rising anxiety even if she isn’t exhibiting any of her stereotypical anxious behaviours.  As a disclaimer, not all my alerts are equally strong as one another, because some precursors and indicators happen more frequently, some associated scents are subtler, and some behaviours or scents are easier to replicate in a training session if a scent sample isn’t available.  Furthermore, you may have noticed that all of my alerts related to anxiety are performed by pawing at my girl: they all have the same alert behaviour so that my girl knows that I’m specifically alerting to her anxiety or panic and not to one of her other health problems.  Having one alert behaviour associated with anxiety helps my girl to understand what I’m communicating to her so that she can make an appropriate response as quickly as possible.

When I was describing how my girl can respond to my anxiety alerts, I  mentioned Deep Pressure Therapy (DPT) as an option.  DPT is a method of firm, tactile sensory input that has a calming effect on the whole body.  Swaddling, firm hugs, and weighted blankets can all provide DPT, but Service Dogs can also be trained to offer DPT.  You may remember from your high school biology class that activation of your sympathetic nervous system is your “fight or flight” response and the activation of your parasympathetic nervous system is your “rest and digest” response.  Increased anxiety is associated with activation of the sympathetic nervous system, which is why you feel a rapid heartbeat when you’re anxious.  Deep Pressure Therapy stimulates the parasympathetic nervous system, which counteracts the effects of the sympathetic nervous system because it performs the “opposite” jobs of the sympathetic nervous system (e.g. the parasympathetic nervous system slows your heartbeat).  I give my girl DPT by applying as much of my bodyweight to my girl as possible.  Ideally, I lie on top on my girl and attempt to lean into her body while she lies on the ground, because pressure on her chest is the most effective at reducing her anxiety (essentially, I act as a weighted vest).  However, not all situations are conducive to having my girl lie on the floor, so we improvise when we need to.  Alternate versions of DPT for us can include having me lie on my girl’s legs while she sits on the ground or having me lean across my girl’s lap while she’s sitting in a chair.  Of course, that last option is least preferred because I can’t apply my full bodyweight, so I can’t give my girl the full benefits of DPT.  Also, please note that DPT is not just “cuddling.”  Rather, it’s specifically applied pressure and is a trained task, and during my training, I was rewarded the more pressure I applied to my girl.

Sources related to the effectiveness of DPT: 1, 2, 3, 4

I also mentioned that my girl has “dissociative” or “paralyzed” panic attacks that don’t appear to have any physical cues that she can replicate in training (unlike before with her scratching).  Automatic DPT doesn’t seem to be able to remove her from her trance-like state, so instead, I offer tactile stimulation, where I lick her, and persistently insist that she play with me.  I just naturally started offering my girl a toy when she was in a “paralyzed” panic attack.  When I’m bored and feeling particularly playful, I can be very insistent that somebody acknowledge me!  I will continually bring over toys and even paw at the person until they give me attention and play with me.  I’m a princess, so the world has to revolve around me, right?!  Eventually, my persistence would pay off, and my girl would come back to reality.  I’m still working on learning when my girl is in a “paralyzed” panic attack, and since my girl has no memory of the time when she’s experiencing one, we aren’t able to replicate it easily.  But I’m getting better and faster at responding with each one!

Remember, in the United States, the ADA requires that a task be “individually trained,” meaning that a Service Dog can’t just naturally offer the behaviour on their own but rather that the Service Dog must be trained to do that behaviour.  If a dog exhibits a natural tendency to do something that is beneficial to their handler, that natural behaviour can be intentionally shaped into a task, and this intentional shaping would count as training.  Although I naturally started licking at my girl and interrupting her panic attacks through play, my girl is transforming this into a trained task by rewarding me heavily when she wakes up from her trance-like state.  This reward reinforces the behaviour that I’m offer so that I’m more likely to do it again during a similar situation in the future.  This conditioning over time is what will make it a trained task.

“Watch My Back” is another one of the many tasks that I do for my girl, along with the “sister” command “Cover”. I stand behind her for “Watch My Back” and in front of her for “Cover,” and the barrier created by my body helps to put her more at ease in a public situation, often for a long enough period of time for her to focus on her shopping, pay for an item at the register, or even just stand in line.  “Watch My Back” and “Cover” are useful for when my girl is feeling particularly anxious or hypervigilant.  These feelings can arise when my girl’s anxiety disorders are acting up and occur especially when she’s feeling tired.  When your body gets tired, your your prefrontal cortex (PFC) also gets tired!  Your PFC controls logical thought and works to inhibit your amygdala, which controls your emotions.  In people with anxiety disorders (like my girl), the amygdala tends to be overactive, which results in a lot of the fear and stress that characterize anxiety disorders. A “tired” PFC can’t inhibit very well, so the amygdala gets “loud,” especially in people with anxiety disorders. If you don’t have an anxiety disorder, your PFC gets “tired” throughout the day, so you still may experience this as having racing thoughts or becoming particularly emotional late at night. For my girl, being tired often means increased hypervigilance in public, so it’s super helpful if I watch her back to let her know she’s okay so that she can run errands and go about her life as normally as possible.

Sources related to the connection between the PFC, amygdala, and hypervigilance: 123, 4

One of my girl’s emergency medications can make her incredibly drowsy and “out of it,” and even her cocktail of medications can cause these side effects, which can be disabling and disorienting.  When my girl experiences these side effects, I can help her through light guide work.  I’m not a guide dog and I have no plans of changing careers anytime soon (I’m far too opinionated to be trusted with such power!), but I can do basic guiding in as-needed and emergency situations, especially since it’s very similar to my forward momentum pulling task.  My main objective is to make sure that my girl does not run into anyone or anything: when my girl is feeling “out of it” from her medications, her processing time is often decreased, which means that she may not be able to interpret that an object or person is in her way before it’s too late!  I am not currently trained to watch for “safe” traffic or to indicate the presence of curbs, but my basic training is functional enough for us at the moment.  I know a few places, with my strongest command being “go home” (although I’ve also been to the Life Sciences Center so frequently that I also know what “go Bio” means and can even lead my girl there from her apartment, which is about a mile away!).  My girl is still wary to trust me though, because I’ve been known to “accidentally” run her into bushes!  I can tell the difference between an emergency and a training session, so luckily, she’ can always rely on me when she really needs to.

Of course, I also help my girl’s mental health problems by offering emotional support and by giving her a routine.  Neither of these are tasks, as defined by the ADA, but nonetheless they are still incredibly important ways that I help my girl in her day-to-day life.  My companionship means that my girl is never alone, even on her hardest and darkest days, and when she’s feeling like a puddle, I’m a good excuse for her to get out of bed, go outside for fetch or walks, and follow at least a very basic routine so that her depression does not completely consume her.  At the end of the day, we are best friends and partners in crime, and sometimes that’s the most important part of my job!

And just a final note: PSDs can do many more tasks than what I do for my girl because different handlers will need different tasks depending on how their mental health problems individually affect them.  My tasks are tailored to what my girl needs, but another Psychiatric Service Dog may have a completely separate set of tasks that still helps their handler.  No matter the tasks, though, every Service Dog has such an essential job to do, and no Service Dog is more important than another!


Thanks for reading,

Kelsie Iris
Like my content? Buy me a dog treat!

What’s Trending Now: My Current Gear Collection

Gear: it’s both a fashion statement and a functional necessity for service dogs.  Every service dog team is different, so each team will have a unique set of gear that works best for them.  It has taken my girl and me about a year to establish what works best for our team, and we’re still adjusting our gear very frequently as we learn about new products and gear setups from other teams.  However, when starting out the process, it can be difficult to figure out exactly what gear will work for your team, especially when beginning as an owner-trainer since you don’t have a program to give you “starter” gear.  If you start out researching how to owner-train a service dog and what gear your dog should wear like my girl did, then the sheer amount of service dog gear available can seem overwhelming (a good place to start is my SD gear checklist or even the list of gear I wore during the summer of 2016).  Alternately, resources on owner-training are limited, so sometimes it can seem like the only options are either a guide dog harness or a traditional Service Dog vest.

So here is what I wear/switch between on a daily basis! (I’ve broken everything down into categories to make reading through everything easier)


Pictured: Kelsie lying on her side and wearing a patterned blue 1.5″ buckle martingale from dogsbythebay, her black leather saxonleatherart harness, a red “Hands Off!” luggage tag, and her blue DD Service Dog Designs cape covered with patches (see the article for patch descriptions).

Gear Setups

  • Working Setup #1:
    • saxonleatherart black leather harness
    • DD Service Dog Designs BLD-style cape OR COZYHORSE backpack cape OR Dog Capes vest
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale
    • GreyDogDesigns pull strap, Bridgeport guide handle, or WireDog bridge handle
    • Bold Lead Designs leather or Brahma guide dog leash (sometimes a hands free leash)
  • Working Setup #2:
    • WireDog vest, usually with saddlebags
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale collar
    • GreyDogDesigns pull strap
    • Bold Lead Designs leather or Brahma guide dog leash (sometimes a hands free leash)
  • Convertible work-to-play Setup:
    • PongoPetz full utility harness
    • Dog Capes vest
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale collar
    • Bold Lead Designs leather or Brahma guide dog leash (sometimes a hands free leash
  • Off Duty Setup #1:
    • PongoPetz full utility harness
    • Molle pocket bag
    • GreyDogDesigns pull strap
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale collar
    • normal 6′ leash
  • Off Duty Setup #2:
    • Outward Hound owl backpack
    • GreyDogDesigns pull strap
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale collar
    • normal 6′ leash
  • Alternative Working Setup:
    • saxonleatherart dragon harness
    • Guide Dog Users, Inc. pouch
    • 1.5″ buckle martingale collar
    • Bold Lead Designs leather or Brahma guide dog leash (sometimes a hands free leash)
  • Around-the-House Setup:
    • sowinkadesign harness

Full List of Gear

  • saxonleatherart (Etsy) custom black leather harness: The lovely woman who runs saxonleatherart made me my own custom harness modeled after an ActiveDogs harness.  It has a handle made out of super soft leather that’s super comfy in my girl’s hand, and even the rest of the harness leather is super high quality with beautiful stitching to finish it off.  It came with a chest plate, which is sometimes used and sometimes not depending on the day.  If I don’t wear the chest plate, then I wear an Active Dogs Sherpa cover on the strap.
  • DD Service Dog Designs (Facebook) BLD-style cape: It is royal blue with zippered pockets.  Instead of having a belly buckle, it has a belly strap that snaps on both sides, which is nice because my girl can take off my cape easily whether I’m on her right or her left side.  My girl is also super sensitive to the noise that velcro makes, so she loves that the harness attachments are snaps instead of velcro!
    • patienceandlove143 (Etsy) symbol patch: In a custom 5″ x 1.9″ size, they each have three symbols on them: a crossed out hand, a crossed out speech bubble, and a crossed out eye.  The design is black, red, and white with a teal border.  One is located on both the left and the right sides of the cape.
    • patienceandlove143 custom patch: 1″ x 4″ in size, it is a custom designed white, red, and black “Do Not Separate From Handler” patch that features a small medical star next to the text, with a caduceus in the center of the star.  Located on the left side of the cape.
    • MuttButt Gear (Instagram) custom patch: 2″ x 4″ in size, it has a symbol of a hand crossed out with “Do Not Distract” beside it, and underneath both of those is “Ignore Me.”  Located on the center panel of the cape.
    • MuttButt Gear custom patch: 1″x4″ in size, it says “Severe light & sound sensitivity.”  Located on the center panel of the cape.
    • DannyLuann Embroidery (Etsy) patch: 1″x4″ in size, it is a white, red, and black “Emergency Info Inside” patch that features a small red cross next to the wording.  Located on the right side of the cape.
  • COZYHORSE (Etsy) backpack cape: Mine is a size 7×17″ in royal blue and is customized to have a plain centre instead of an ID holder and a small zippered pocket, and it combines the BLD-style cape with a saddlebag/pack design for more pocket space.  The pockets have reflective strips.
    • patienceandlove143 symbol patches: In a custom 5″ x 1.9″ size, they each have three symbols on them: a crossed out hand, a crossed out speech bubble, and a crossed out eye.  The design is black, red, and white with a teal border.  One is located on both the left and the right sides of the cape.
    • patienceandlove143 custom patch: 1″ x 4″ in size, it is a custom designed white, red, and black “Do Not Separate From Handler” patch that features a small medical star next to the text, with a caduceus in the center of the star.  Located on the left side of the cape.
    • MuttButt Gear patch: 2″ x 4″ in size, it has a symbol of a hand crossed out with “Do Not Distract” beside it, and underneath both of those is “Ignore Me.”  Located on the center panel of the cape.
    • MuttButt Gear patch: 1″x4″ in size, it says “Severe light & sound sensitivity.”  Located on the center panel of the cape.
    • DannyLuann Embroidery patch: 1″x4″ in size, this is a white, red, and black “Emergency Info Inside” patch that features a small red cross next to the wording.  Located on the right side of the cape.
  • Dog Capes Blue Dog Vest:
    • patienceandlove143 symbol patches: In a custom 5″ x 1.9″ size, they each have three symbols on them: a crossed out hand, a crossed out speech bubble, and a crossed out eye.  The design is black, red, and white with a teal border.  One is located on both the left and the right sides of the cape.
    • patienceandlove143 custom patch: 1″ x 4″ in size, it is a custom designed white, red, and black “Do Not Separate From Handler” patch that features a small medical star next to the text, with a caduceus in the center of the star.  Located on the left side of the cape.
    • DannyLuann Embroidery patch: 1″x4″ white, red, and black “Emergency Info Inside” patch that features a small red cross next to the wording.  Located on the right side of the cape.
    • SitStay circular patch: I got the white, red, and black patch with a 3.5″ diameter.  It has a black hand crossed out in the center, and around the circumference are the words “Please Don’t Pet Me I’m Working.”  I have this on my WireDog vest.
  • WireDog Classic Harness Vest: My first vest ever, and it’s still going strong!  Mine is in royal blue and fits a 26-30″ girth.  I customized mine to have a “Service Dog” patch on each side (rather than on the left and on the top), which WireDog did for no additional cost (thanks WireDog!).  My girl loves the rubber handle for tactile stimulation and for momentum pulls up stairs, and the three D-rings are helpful for attaching saddlebags (which WireDog also offers on their website).
    • MuttButt Gear patch: 2″ x 4″ in size, has the symbol of a hand crossed out with “Do Not Distract” next to that, and underneath both of those is “Ignore Me.”  Located on the saddle bag that I place on the right side of the vest.
    • DannyLuann Embroidery patch: 1″x4″ white, red, and black “Emergency Info Inside” patch that features a small red cross next to the wording. Located on the saddle bag that I place on the right side of the vest.
    • patienceandlove143 (Etsy) custom patches: I got mine in the white, red, and black shown in the photo and in the smaller 4.5″x1″ size.  Love this patch!  It has a crossed out hand, a crossed out speech bubble, a crossed out eye, and a crossed out camera.  Located on the saddle bag that I place on the left side of the vest.
    • SitStay circular patch: I got the white, red, and black patch with a 3.5″ diameter.  It has a black hand crossed out in the center, and around the circumference are the words “Please Don’t Pet Me I’m Working.”  I have this on my WireDog vest.
    • CreativeClam (Etsy) circular patch: I have the 3″ diameter patch with a red stop sign in the centre and red lettering “Do Not Pet” above the stop sign and “Do Not Distract” below the stop sign.  I have this on each side of my WireDog vest.
  • sowinkadesign (Etsy) Norway harness: For days when my girl needs a little extra help around the house, I needed a mobility-style harness that was so comfortable that I could wear it around the house but wouldn’t think I was officially working. This harness was easily the winner! Because it’s designed as a normal walking harness, the chest strap is padded with fleece, which is excellent because that eases any pressure from the strap where a leash would normally attach (except my girl uses this as a counterbalance strap). I have this harness in plain black with a blue jacquard ribbon, and for me, the “circuit chest” measurement was 60-70 cm and the “Measure A” was 45 cm.
  • saxonleatherart (Etsy) custom dragon leather harness: This harness is a literal dream come true. When my girl got my dragon collars from saxonleatherart, she had this wild idea about getting a dragon harness, and saxonleatherart made it a reality!  Complete with scales and wings, it matches both of my dragon collars but is still functional as a Service Dog harness underneath all its beauty!  Funnily enough, I get fewer stares and questions from strangers when I’m in my dragon harness than when I’m in my normal black harness…
  • PongoPetz (Etsy) Full Utility Harness: This harness is actually made for pet dogs, but my girl and I first discovered it through another Service Dog team! Canadian-based PongoPetz is warm and friendly to work with, and this is hands down one of our favourite dog harnesses of all time, especially since it can easily be converted from a “working” harness to an “off duty” harness! My current harness is blue with 1.5″ straps and has plastic buckles.
    • SkyCity mini tactical molle pocket bag: When my girl started looking for a lightweight summer harnesss for me during the summer of 2016, attaching a molle bag to a harness seemed like the best way to go, but finding a bag that wasn’t too big was actually really tricky. We finally stumbled across this excellent pouch that is conveniently 4.3″ x 2.76″ — nice and small!  It was perfect in every way…except that it wasn’t actually molle and needed to slide onto a belt. So the original pouch has now been modified a bit with snaps and elastic straps so that it can easily be attached and detached from my PongoPetz harness.
      • patienceandlove143 custom patch: 1″ x 4″ in size, this patch says “Emergency Information Inside” and has a medical star next to the text, with a caduceus in the center of the star.  The text is red against a black background, and it has a teal border.
  • Outward Hound Kyjen Pal Pack Backpack: This backpack is definitely the most professional-looking Service Dog gear that I own.  I’m joking, of course!  Although I’ve occasionally worked in it when I’ve needed to, this is my “off duty” backpack, and it’s perfect for its job!  Its pockets are just the right size to carry my off duty essentials: emergency information, emergency medication, waste bags, dog tags, and a couple of business cards. There are a few different designs to choose from, and although my signiture colour is blue (aka the monster design), the final choice was between the purple unicorn and the orange owl — the owl won! I wear a size medium, and there’s plenty of room for adjustment both in the chest and in the girth.
    • patienceandlove143 custom patch: 1″ x 4″ in size, this patch says “Emergency Information Inside” and has a medical star next to the text, with a caduceus in the center of the star.  The text and border are yellow against a black background.
  • Bridgeport 8″ guide handle: I got mine in black!  I also have the 12″ handle, but it’s a little too long for what my girl needs.  Depending on what my girl needs, I’ll either be wearing this or one of my paracord pull straps.
  • GreyDogDesigns (Etsy) 12 inch-, 16 inch-, and 21 inch-long paracord pull straps: Although many Service Dog teams that I follow on Instagram use or sell paracord pull straps, the popular designs tended to hurt my girl’s hands, so we struggled to find the right one. Thankfully, these double round braid are super comfortable!  They’re also very easy to hold since they’re thicker than normal paracord pull straps.  I tend to have plain gear so my pull straps are 100% black.
  • WireDog Classic Snap On Bridge Handle: As a team, my girl and I have not used this handle extensively yet, but we like what we’ve seen. It’s not rigid, but it does have a rigid section to hold.  Ours is the 14″ length because I’m a shorter dog and my girl has short arms.
  • LilSomethinSpecial counterbalance handle: This superbly made handle is super comfortable in my girl’s hand thanks to its fleece lining.  Ours is 19″ long in solid black.
  • Guide Dog Users Inc. harness pouch: This small 5″ x 3″ x 1″ black pouch (with a teal “Guide Dog Users Inc.” logo on the front, which I covered with a patch) easily snaps onto a 1″ wide harness.  We saw a guide dog team on instagram using it and realized it was a perfect pouch for carrying the essentials: emergency information, a couple of waste bags, and my dog tags.
    • patienceandlove143 custom patch: This circular patch with a 3″ diameter features a crossed out hand in the center.  Wording across the top arch says “Medical Info Inside,” and wording across the bottom arch says “Service Dog.”  Embroidery is in teal against a black background.
  • patienceandlove143 (Etsy) leash wraps: It’s like my symbol patch, but in the form of a leash wrap!  I got mine in black, red, and white and was able to get a custom length of 5″ to help it fit on my guide handle and/or pull straps more easily.  Its symbols are slightly different from the patch with a stop sign instead of a crossed out camera, but it still gets the same job done!
  • 1.5″ martingale collars: I won’t list all my collars, but my current collection includes saxonleatherart (Etsy; dragon chain martingales), dogsbythebay (Etsy; I also have a 6′ long black leash from them), If It Barks (one of my first collars was by If It Barks, which you can find in my article about martingales), Anomaly Collar Club (Etsy), cody’s creations (Etsy), and Collars by Design (Etsy).
  • Bold Lead Designs leather guide leash: I have the “shorter service dog” length for this leash, and it automatically comes in 1/2″ wide black leather.  It’s been my working leash for almost two years now, and it has definitely been the perfect leash for the job.
  • Bold Lead Designs Brahma guide leashMy girl is very protective of her leather, which means that she was reluctant to work me in my leather guide lead when the weather was poor, even though it was the perfect lead for my job as a service dog.  Luckily, we were able to get the exact same leash but in Brahma, a weatherproof material made to feel and look like leather.  It’s a 1/2″ black lead in the “shorter service dog” length, so it’s the same as my normal working leash but can be used in any weather!
  • Bold Lead Designs 8-by-8 Brahma leashI have the 6′ length for this leash, and it automatically comes in 1/2″ wide black Brahma, the same weatherproof material as my “all weather” guide leash.  With multiple attachments for the clasps, this leash can be configured in all kinds of ways.  It’s great for when my girl needs her hands free, like when she’s pushing a cart at the supermarket.
  • ActiveDogs hands free leash: I got the 7.5″ length, and it came with a black patch/sleeve that says “Service Dog” in white lettering.  My girl uses this a lot on campus because it can help keep her hands free while still maintaining control over me (e.g. in the dining hall), although that control is more out of legal necessity by the ADA than out of training necessity, since my girl doesn’t really use a leash to communicate with me.
  • EpicFido (Etsy) service dog mat: These mats are made with a soft fleece top (mine is in a blue in white pattern, although you can get pretty much anything under the sun) and a wipe-clean black vinyl bottom.  My girl got this for me to settle on while she’s in a science lab, but it’s proven handy in so many other situations, including keeping me from directly lying on the questionable floor of Dartmouth’s dining hall!
  • Walmart G-Force HANDS OFF! luggage tag: Click here for a more in depth review!  My girl transfers ours to my different harnesses.  It’s helpful because she can change it to my left side or my right side depending on where I’m walking in relation to her.
  • collapsible bowl:  I have three of these, actually–one small pink one that either my girl carries or I carry so I can have water with me whenever, and two larger ones (one blue and round, one lime green and square) for travel, instead of having to bring two big, clunky bowls.
  • Nightize S-Biner: Small with the ability to lock–my girl uses it to hold my various rabies tags/microchip tags since I change collars so often (each of my collars has an ID tag though).
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Pictured: Kelsie wearing her blue Cozy Horse pack with her black leather harness. The pack has a path with symbols for “no petting,” “no talking,” and “no starting,” as well as a patch that says “emergency information inside.”  Kelsie is lying in a bed of tulips, and her tail is particularly fluffy.

Tail wags and puppy kisses for now,

Kelsie Iris
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Training Tips: Loose Leash Walking and Heeling


Photo shows Kelsie sitting while holding her teal and black braided leash in her mouth.

Behaving nicely while on a leash is  an incredibly important aspect of my job as a Service Dog.  Good behaviorist is imperative for a Service Dog since my girl only has public access rights with me as long as I’m under control and not “unruly,” which means I have had to learn how to walk calmly on a leash.  Pulling on the leash would make my girl’s chronic fatigue worse, so I must walk with a loose leash and make sure I don’t pull my girl (except when I’m doing a Forward Momentum Pull).  Furthermore, because I sometimes encounter crowds or tight spaces while I’m on the job, I have had to learn to stay close to my girl while I’m working.  Some people would call this position a “Heel,” since I stay right by my girl’s foot while I walk.

Whether you call it heeling or another term, loose leash walking is crucial for Service Dogs and pet dogs alike.  It’s a fundamental aspect of a polite, well-behaved dog.  My girl even has a personal belief that all dogs should be able to be walked just from a person holding the leash with a pinky finger (however, for some dogs, this might not be attainable during their lifetime, but it’s a good goal to have).  However, walking nicely on a leash doesn’t come naturally to most dogs, so training this behaviour can be a slow process.

Before you even start to train loose leash walking or heeling, you’ll want to choose the appropriate equipment for your dog.  If you have a dog that pulls while walking on a leash, you’ll want to opt for a harness rather than a collar.  Tracheal damage can occur from a dog that pulls while wearing a collar, so until your dog learns to walk nicely on a leash, it’s best to walk them in a harness instead.  If your dog is wheezing because they’re pulling so hard, then you definitely shouldn’t be using a collar!  Some dogs can be redirected easily with a head collar, but a strong puller should not be worked in a head collar, since that kind of pulling can cause facial or neck damage (I talk about head collars in this article).  A harness is by far your best bet for keeping your pup safe until they learn how to walk nicely on a leash.

Not all harnesses are created equal, however.  At least until your pup learns how to stop pulling, you’ll probably want to stay clear of back-clipping harnesses.  Harnesses that clip on the dog’s back can actually encourage pulling: think about sled dogs and the harnesses they use!  So although a harness is safer than a collar when teaching your pup to walk nicely, the wrong kind of harness can be unintentionally counter-productive.  Therefore, you’ll most likely want a harness that has a clip in the front over the dog’s chest.  When a dog pulls on a front-clip harness, the pulling is redirected so that the dog is turned to face you.  Pulling = going nowhere.  Pairing training with the effects of this harness  should, over time, teach your pup the tools they need to walk nicely on a leash.

But even within the realm of front-clip harnesses, there’s variation.  Y-front harnesses are probably your better option for front-clip harnesses, especially if your pup is a strong or constant puller.  The Y-front shape better follows the natural shape of a dog’s scapulae and therefore isn’t as likely to cause musculature changes in dogs that pull against these kinds of harnesses.  Straight-front harnesses (like the ever-popular Easy Walk harness) have the potential to cause abnormal muscle development, particularly in dogs that are heavy pullers.  The straight front can restrict the dog’s movement and therefore can lead to muscle changes over time.  In dogs that aren’t frequent pullers, this shouldn’t be too big of an issue, but since even a back-clip on a straight front can cause these musculature changes, I personally think it’s better to avoid straight-front harnesses whenever possible.   However, many guide dog harnesses are designed with a straight front and do not cause severe changes in musculature, so of course, not all straight-front harnesses are “bad.”  At the end of the day, the most important thing is to choose the harness that works best for you and your pup!  And if you’re at all unsure about a harness and its potential effects on your dog, it’s always best to ask your vet or a qualified trainer to get a second opinion.

Kurgo has a variety of harnesses with front clips, but you can also find a number of front-clipping harnesses on Amazon, including the Ruffwear front range harness.  Your local pet store might have some, too!  We have a PongoPetz harness that has both a back and a front clip.  I already knew how to walk nicely when I got my PongoPetz, which means I’ve never been walked with my leash on the front clip, but PongoPetz can also be a good option.

Once you’ve chosen your equipment, you can employ a couple of different methods simultaneously to shape your pup’s loose leash walking. I’m going to call these the “Treat Reward Method” and the “Walkig Reward Method.”

Treat Reward Method

With your pup on a leash, use a treat to lure them into the position you want when you’re walking your dog on a leash.  Reward and repeat, adding a command word (e.g. “Heel”) after several repetitions.  Once your dog is consistently figuring out the position, say the command word and take one step forward while luring your dog forward with a treat.  If your pup stays approximately in the right position, reward and repeat the exercise.  Over time, you will want to build up the number of steps you take, and you will also want to slowly phase out luring so that your pup is offering the behaviour on their own.  This will give your pup a solid foundation for understanding the “correct” place to walk while on a leash.

Walking Reward Method

While walking your pup on a leash, you will stop walking forward whenever your dog pulls or puts tension on the leash.  As soon as your dog takes a step towards to you ease the tension on the leash, use a verbal reward (e.g. “Good!”) and walk forward again.  Here, the walk serves as your dog’s reward, since walking is what your dog wants (hence the pulling).  Repeat this every time your pup pulls — sometimes it will seem very tedious and sometimes you might not get further than a couple of inches at a time, but it’s important to stop walking every time your dog pulls so that your dog learns that pulling gets them nowhere.  Your dog, particularly if they tend to pull strongly or lunge, should be wearing a body harness for the Walking Reward Method, because pulling or lunging against a collar can cause tracheal damage.  A front-clipping harness is ideal, since the harness will turn the dog towards you whenever they pull, which will further reinforce the idea that pulling will not get them what they want.  You may also want to click and reward whenever your dog walks within a certain radius of you, because this will teach your dog a behaviour that they can offer instead of pulling (plus, once your dog understand the concept of heeling through the Treat Reward Method, you can begin asking for a heel and rewarding for that).

I highly recommend using both the Treat Reward Method and the Walking Reward Method while training loose leash walking.  The Treat Reward Method teaches your dog where you want them to be, while the Walking Reward Method teaches your dog what you don’t want them to do: the two methods effectively work in harmony to shape the behaviour you want while decreasing the behaviour you don’t want.  You pup may pick up on one method faster than the other, and that’s okay!  Every dog learns at their own pace, and since loose leash walking is a difficult concept for dogs, either or both methods might take a while to “stick” with your dog.  Just take things slowly and remember that any progress is still progress!

Of course, not everyone is looking for a formal obedience heel, especially if you just have a family pet that you want to be able to walk without your arms getting dislocated.  Feel free to adjust either method to get the heel that works best for you.  When I’m not working, I personally often walk with a little tension in my leash, and that’s okay!  My girl likes a little tension in the leash because it helps pull her along lightly without having me do a formal Forward Momentum Pull when I’m “off duty.”  She still gets the benefits of the pull, while I get to think I’m not working!  However, even if you’re okay with a bit of tension in the leash, it’s important to be able to tell your dog to decrease that tension, and I make sure that I come back closer to my girl as soon as she tells me that I’m pulling too much for her.  It’s important that I have the ability to walk without tension on the leash, even if my girl is okay with it, because she has young nieces and nephews who might want to walk me, and I don’t want to hurt them by pulling to hard and accidentally pulling them over.  That would be bad!  So even though I keep light tension on my leash, I still know how to walk with slack in the leash when I need to.  And, of course, I almost always walk with a loose leash while I’m working — I like to be a model citizen!

Best of luck with teaching your dog how to walk nicely on a leash.  It can be a long, difficult process, but I promise that the end product is infinitely worth it!


Happy trails!
Kelsie Iris

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Wearing Boots in the Summer Isn’t Just for Cowgirls: How to Survive the Service Dog Days of Summer

Happy first day of summer, everyone!

The dog days of summer are almost here!  And that means the intense heat of summer is almost here, too.  Although summer is an incredibly fun season, it can also be unbearably hot.  Since dogs wear fur coats 24/7, how is a pup supposed to stay cool in the summer months?

This is the start of my third summer living with my girl!  During my previous summer (2016), I was exposed to the heat and humidity of New Hampshire during the summertime, and so I learned some tips and tricks for keeping cool in the summer.  Staying cool (and hydrated!) is important for all dogs but is especially crucial for service dogs, since a dog in danger of heat stroke can’t properly keep their handler safe.  A safe service dog means a safe handler!  And in the summertime, a cool dog is a safe dog.


Picture is of me lying in the grass modeling my blue cooling coat, and I have a matching blue ring toy at my paws.

One of the most useful pieces of my summer outfit, especially on really hot days, is my cooling coat.  A cooling coat works to cool down a pup through the evaporation of water.  Even though it seems counterintuitive to put a coat on a dog that’s hot, a cooling coat can actually be a very effective way to prevent a dog from overheating.  A coat with a belly or chest panel is especially preferred, because dogs will lose heat faster where they have less fur (e.g. their underbelly and their paws).  Cooling bandanas, which work in a similar fashion but just tie around your pup’s neck, are also an option in the summertime.  Because some major veins run up a pup’s neck, a cooling bandana or collar can easily help to keep cool in the heat.  When it gets really hot out, though, I would favour a cooling coat over a cooling bandana, because a coat will offer a more widespread cooling effect, especially if it has a belly panel.  However, you can never have too much cooling on a hot day!  Pairing a cooling bandana with a cooling coat might be a very good option for certain pups that overheat easily.

My cooling coat is from madebyde on Etsy.  It’s made of chamois, which is a fabric that can stay cool for several hours but retains water in a way that leaves your pup dry.  All you have to do is soak it for a few minutes in cold water, and you’re good to go for the next few hours!  There are many other places to get dog cooling coats, though, including Ruffwear.

A super important part of summer gear for pups who are often out an about are booties!  When the weather is hot outside, pavement and asphalt can heat up very quickly and become much more hot than the temperature of the air.  For example, even when the air temperature is around 75˚F, the asphalt can have a temperature of up to 125˚F – ouch!  Blisters, burns, and other skin destruction can occur very quickly when paws come into contact with such hot temperatures, so it’s super important for working pups (and even pet pups who are outdoors a lot) to have protection for their paws, just like how humans wear shoes.  Some people will use musher’s wax as an alternative, but thickness is really the secret to protection during the summer.  Heat radiates off the ground, so thick soles are a must for any summertime booties, which is why I don’t wear my Pawz booties in the summer: they’re just a “sock” of rubber, so they offer little to no protection against hot pavement.  In fact, it’s even best to carry small dogs since heat can radiate up to a few inches off the ground, which means small dogs can burn their bellies just from walking on the ground!

The booties I use during the summer are RuffWear Summit Trex, which were thoughtfully gifted to my girl and me by her brother and his family!  (They were actually intended for winter wear, but I actually prefer these for the summer and my Pawz booties for the winter!)  RuffWear Summit Trex booties are not quite as breathable as RuffWear Grip Trex booties, which have mesh on the top for ventilation.  However, we still love our Summit Trex!  We dogs sweat through our paw pads, so booties can actually cause us to overheat, which is why my girl has me walk bootless as much as possible when it’s hot outside.  We mostly walk on grass or in the shade, and when I have to walk on pavement or asphalt, my girl tests it first by holding the back of her hand to it for 10 seconds to see if she can tolerate it.  If she can and if we don’t have too far to walk, then I will generally go without my boots.  However, if there’s any risk that I will hurt my paws, I will always wear my boots!  And my girl always carries my booties with her during the summer just in case I might need them.

If your pup is a service dog, some handlers like to have lightweight “summer gear” for their pups.  Sometimes this means just putting your pup in its harness if you usually dress your pup in a harness, but sometimes handlers have an entirely different summer setup, like a mesh vest instead of a normal vest.  Your setup will depend on what you need!  If you don’t need pockets, then a simple harness with a “Service Dog” patch may be all that you need: another Service Dog that I know has PongoPetz harness with a patch on it, because the handler doesn’t require pockets of any kind (I actually also have a PongoPetz harness, but I had a small molle pouch to it since I need to carry things like my girl’s medical info).  And for some teams, a cooling coat placed underneath the dog’s normal gear is sufficient for keeping that service dog cool.  It all depends on what works for you as a team!

What does my summer gear setup look like?  It depends on the day!  Last summer (2016), I often just wore my cooling coat under my normal working gear.  This summer (2017), I’ll have the option of wearing my PongoPetz harness with a small molle pouch.  Normally, my PongoPetz harness acts as a work-to-play “convertible” harness, but there’s no rule saying that it can’t function as a lightweight summer harness, too!

I highly recommend carrying a collapsible bowl with you this summer so that you can give your pup water no matter where you are.  Some handlers clip the bowl onto their pup’s harness, since the bowls usually come with a carabiner, but my girl just clips hers onto her own backpack, since I already carry things for her in my own pockets.

My collapsible bowls are from Amazon and PetCo, but honestly I couldn’t tell you the brand because one brand is just as good as another.  Size is also up to personal preference: I have a few different sizes, because I use larger ones as travel dog bowls and a smaller one as my daily on-the-go water bowl.  As long as it collapses into a flat disk or square, you’re good to go!  Some companies like Ruffwear offer a bag-like collapsible water bowl, but my girl personally prefers the silicone kind of collapsible bowl.  It’s just a matter of personal preference!  Pick whichever kind of bowl most suits your needs best.

If your pup is a double-coated breed (or a mix that inherited a double-coat), remember not to shave off their fur this summer!  It seems counterintuitive, right?  Surely, your fluffy dog gets more hot with more fur, so shaving off that fur makes sense, right?  Wrong!  Shaving your double-coated dog actually makes the dog hotter in the heat.  Yes, the woolly undercoat does provide insulation in the wintertime and keeps your dog’s body temperature more stable, so it’s true that a double coat does keep your dog warm.  However, in the summertime, this undercoat should be shed or brushed out, which allows airflow to keep the dog cool.  Shaving your pup removes the top coat, which is harder and waterproof and protects your pup from the sun’s radiation.  When you shave your pup, you increase the risk of sunburn and reduce protection from the heat.  When you shave your pup, the undercoat grows back first, which means that your pup gets warmer faster without the protection of the top coat.  Many studies on birds support a similar concept.

Not sure if your pup is double-coated or not?  Usually, you can tell by parting your pup’s fur: if you can easily reach the skin, then your dog is single-coated, but if you have to part through a layer of hair to get to the skin, then your dog is double-coated.  Sometimes it can be hard to tell, though, so you can always ask your vet or groomer if your dog is double-coated or not.  Many dogs, due to their breed, are double-coated, including (but by no means limited to) these breeds that are popular in the US: Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Yorkshire Terriers, Shiba Inu, Siberian Huskies, Pomeranians, Australian Shepherds (including Miniature American Shepherds), both types of Corgi, Shetland Sheepdogs, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Miniature Schnauzers, Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers, and Shih Tzu.  If you have a designer breed that is a mix of one or more double-coated dogs, there is a chance that your pup inherited the double coat since designer breeds follow the same rules of genetic inheritance of any other mix (despite the fact that many “hybrid” breeds are advertised as hypoallergenic).

And, of course, the best ways to combat the heat of summer aren’t pieces of gear: shade and air-conditioning will always be your best friends!  Just like heat isn’t good for humans (certain temperatures can cause brain damage!), prolonged exposure to heat isn’t good for pups, either, so avoiding the heat (particularly the combination of heat + sun exposure) is definitely recommended whenever possible.


Cooling puppy kisses,

Kelsie Iris


Check out these other posts of mine:
Service Dog team etiquette
Don’t distract Service Dogs
Spoon Theory
Confused? See my terms and abbreviations

Navigating the Sea of Owner-Training, Part I-a: How to Choose a Breeder


Photo shows a close-up of my face as I’m touching my baby Uno with my nose when he was too young to open his eyes.  I’m looking down at him, and he’s nestled in the crook of my front arm.

If you’ve selected the owner-training route for acquiring a service dog, then one of the first choices you’ll have to make is whether you want to get your dog from a breeder or rescue your dog.  I’m a rescued dog and was saved from a shelter in Louisiana, so of course, both my girl and I are big advocates of rescuing animals whenever possible.  Rescuing saves lives — it even saved my life!  And rescue dogs can become excellent service dogs.  Quite a few ADI-accredited service dog organizations use rescued dogs, alongside homebred dogs, in their training programs.

Sometimes, though, rescuing isn’t always the most practical option when you’re looking to owner-train your own service dog.  This is primarily because dogs from shelters or rescues often have unknown genetic and health backgrounds, which means that unforeseen health problems can appear later in the dog’s life and end their career as a service dog.  Good health is absolutely crucial for a service dog – it’s not a place where you can or should cut corners or make exceptions.  Even for service dogs that don’t specialize in mobility work, health is absolutely crucial, because service dogs have long working days and are expected to lie down for long periods on surfaces not designed for doggie comfort.  If you don’t know an individual dog’s lineage, then heath can be a bit of a gamble, which means your prospect could wash out due to health problems, and you’ll have to start the process all over again.  It would be a shame to put two years’ worth of training into a dog just to find out at two years old that they have really bad hips.  That being said, if you’re not careful about the breeder that you choose for your prospect, you can end up in the exact same place but will have spent more money.

So, how do you even go about picking a breeder when there are so many?  The flashy websites can be distracting, and if you’re in a populated area like Southern California or are looking into a popular bred, the sheer number of options can seem overwhelming.  That’s why I’ve created a list of criteria that most responsible breeders meet!  This will help you select the best place to get your prospect puppy, and it’s even a useful resource for anyone else just looking for a pet.

Criteria When Picking a Breeder (the most important criteria will be marked with an asterisk)

  • *Breed appropriate health testing, as well as proof of that testing
    • *Hip and elbow testing (through OFA or PennHip, done at 2 years old at the earliest), eye testing (should be done annually), and cardiac testing are all pretty standard for most breeds, particularly larger breeds.
      • Since hip testing can only be done once a dog is 1.5-2 years old (when growth plates close; varies depending on the breed and individual dog), a dog should not be bred earlier than that, unless very specific circumstances dictate otherwise.  If a breeder is breeding younger dogs, that’s a huge red flag!
      • Some breeders will say that a dog is “cleared by parentage.”  If the trait is inherited through Mendelian genetics (i.e. not hip dysplasia), such a claim can theoretically be generally safe enough to trust, especially if it’s being used as a placeholder until the dog is old enough to be tested for that given health issue.  However, mutations can occur in any individual dog, so it is best and highly encouraged to have each individual dog tested for the health problems and not just trust parentage to certify the dog’s health.
    • *You want to find a breeder who is actively trying to evade the risk of health problems whenever possible.  Responsible breeders will usually provide a health guarantee.
      • Health is important not just for service dogs, but also for any dog because you want your best friend (even if “just” a pet) to live a long, happy life with you!
      • This unfortunately also means that breeders of certain “problematic” breeds (e.g. French bulldogs, bulldogs, etc.) can never really be reputable, because those breeds are inherently unhealthy.
  • Titles on the breeder’s dogs (and also potentially proof of those titles, particularly if those titles are relevant to you and what you’re looking for in a dog).
    • You might not have the confidence and experience to be able to judge a dog by its conformation or working ability, so it’s useful to see that the dogs have proven themselves in front of people who do know how to judge these qualities.
    • Titles indicate that the dogs are potentially worthy of being bred because they are more than just a “pretty face,” especially for performance events, and have proven themselves against other dogs, sometimes even dogs of the same breed.
    • What titles are “important” can vary depending on what you’re looking for in a dog.  For example, if you’re looking for a German Shepherd to do herding work, then a herding title might be more appropriate, but if you’re looking for the “general concept” of a German Shepherd Dog, then IPO titles might be better suited to you.
  • *Breeder requires you to sign an owner contract.
    • Usually, this contract will require the dog to be spayed/neutered (unless you have otherwise discussed getting a puppy as a prospect breeder/shower), preferably within the first 1-2 years of life.  Reputable breeders care about the future of the breed and want their dogs to be responsibly bred, so they will not sell intact dogs to just anyone.  *Any puppy that is going to be a pet should absolutely have a spay/neuter contract.*
      • Some breeders will have a clause enabling them to take back the dog if you fail to abide by the spay/neuter requirement and/or breed the dog.  Again, this is because responsible breeders care about the future of the breed and want to produce only the best dogs, so if they sold you a “pet-quality” dog, then they do not believe that individual dog should be bred.
    • *A responsible breeder will take back their dogs if you are unable to care for the dog and will not let their dogs end up in shelters.  This applies to any age and any health condition.
      • Many breeders will have a part of their contract that guarantees the health of the puppy for the first 1-2 years of its life, barring extenuating circumstances.  Note, though, that even breeders with health guarantees in their contracts can have “sketchier” elements to those guarantees.  You’ll want to see under what circumstances you’re allowed to return the dog, especially if the breeder includes a refund, and you’ll want to steer clear of breeders that will put the dog to sleep when you return it, especially if that’s a requirement for a refund or replacement dog.
  • A responsible breeder usually only breeds 1-2 litters per year maximum.
    • Selective breeding not only shows that the breeder is putting a lot of thought into each breeding to ensure that it’s the best, but it also means that the breeder can dedicate quality time to each litter to spend time with the puppies and maximally socialize the puppies.
      • Each breedings takes tons of planning and health testing beforehand, which means that it can hardly be a “spur of the moment decision.”  Therefore, a “last minute” or “oops” breeding is a huge red flag.
      • Early Neurological Stimulation, proper observation of each individual puppy, and thorough socialization take a lot of time!  Every litter requires hours upon hours of dedication in order to raise the best dogs possible, so the more litters that a breeder has, the less time that they can devote to any individual litter or puppy.
    • Frequent breeding is often a sign that the breeder is trying to make a profit.
      • *Puppies should not always be available.  A breeder that has puppies constantly available is most likely attempting to make a profit from those puppies and/or is breeding too frequently to actually plan the best matings.  If you wanted a puppy “yesterday,” then go to a shelter and adopt a rescue puppy!  If you absolutely must have a purebred, then you should be willing to wait a year or more to acquire your purebred puppy (especially because breeders often have long waiting lists).
    • Along those lines, responsible breeders will usually only have a handful of dogs.  Picture how many dogs that you could give quality care to on any given day: the breeder should not have many more dogs than that number, because care for each individual dog should be important to a responsible breeder. (Note that the breeder may own or co-own many dogs where the dogs live with other people, and that can increase the number of dogs.)
  • *Puppies should not go home before 8 weeks old, minimum.
    • Puppies are still in a critical socialization period at 8 weeks old, even if they are weaned by that point.  Puppies learn a lot from their mother and their litter mates during the first few weeks of life.
    • Small dogs should usually go home later than 8 weeks due to their tiny size; waiting until they’re larger is safer and is usually encouraged by breeders.
    • *Puppies will be vaccinated with age-appropriate vaccines and dewormed by the time they go home.
    • It should go without saying that reputable breeders to not sell to pet stores, since pet stores are looking to make a profit and often buy from puppy mills, which do not care about the health, temperament, or genetics of their puppies.
  • *Breeder has knowledge about the breed and seeks to improve the breed.
    • A breeder should breed one breed at a time, with a maximum of two breeds.  This is because a breeder should have specialized knowledge about their particular breed.  “Dabbling” in multiple breeds decreases this ability to gain specialized knowledge, which reduces the breeder’s ability to breed the best dogs possible.
    • You should do research beforehand so that you know whether the breeder knows the breed’s basics and whether the breeder is giving you the truth about the breed.  And if the breeder doesn’t know the basics of the breed like how to spell the name (e.g. it’s German Shepherd not “Shepard”), that’s usually not a great sign.
    • *The breeder should have no hesitation turning away individuals whose lifestyle does not match the requirements of the breed: they should care more about finding the right home for their puppies than selling the puppies.
    • A note about “designer dog,” “hybrid,” and “doodle” breeders: there are no breed standards (and no recognized parent clubs that oversee the breed and hold the breeders to a standard of quality) since none of these dogs are real breeds so there is no way to “improve” the breed or even have applicable knowledge about the breed.  Mixing two (or more) breeds together can introduce traits from any of the breeds involved, so there is no baseline for tracking improvement.  One “goldendoodle” can vary significantly from another “goldendoodle.”  Beyond that, since “hybrid” dogs are the new popular craze, many so-called breeders are just breeding since it’s lucrative, and very few hybrid breeders will meet all (or even some) of the most important criteria on this list.  A given breed has a certain set of traits that should be represented in any individual dog, but when you’re combining breeds, you’re mixing traits and may not end up with a suitable combination.  For example, labradoodles can have fear-based issues with forward aggression due to the aloofness and sensitivity of poodles combined with the sociability of Labradors.  Furthermore, combining two breeds can lead to structural issues if careful consideration is not taken.  A lot of people will mention “hybrid vigor” when voicing praise about designer dogs, but that’s a myth.  Although rescued mixes can often have fewer health issues, there are a handful reasons for those decreased health issues, but those reasons do not apply to the sketchy breeding practices of designer dog breeders.  Every part of a purebred dog is designed to work together for the breed’s intended purpose, such that if two breeds are different enough in structure, then you leave the dog more vulnerable to musculoskeletal problems down the line.  And beyond that, if you mix a dysplasic poodle with a dysplasic Labrador, you’re not going to get a Labradoodle with “hybrid vigor”: you’re going to get a dysplasic poodle x Labrador mix.
      • Rescued dogs often can have that “vigor” (which is one of the many reasons I encourage people to rescue!), but this apparent “vigor” appears for a number of reasons, as I mentioned.  One is that there just aren’t as sketchy of breeding practices when humans aren’t interfering with the breedings.  Human-driven breeding, especially for profit, is a hugely different realm from dog-driven breeding.  And when you factor in the fat that people often make the decision to choose a “cute” trait in exchange for health problems (e.g. brachycephalic dogs), you can easily see how breedings dogs because they’re “cute” (which is usually the reasoning behind designer mixes) can cause major health problems.  Dogs, on the other hand, attempt to find the best mates, just like pretty much any other species, and oftentimes, this mate selection is associated with finding the healthiest mate.  Humans do this, too, but in different ways: one theory behind the prevalence of tattooing/piercing/scarification in almost all human cultures is that deliberate injury is a way to show that you have a healthy immune system: you open up your body to antigens, and your survival shows that you are a healthy individual, which shows potential mates that you are pretty hot stuff.  It’s also theorized that kissing is a way to transfer subtle cues about your immune system in a way that helps you say, “Hey, I’m a healthy individual, just look at all this antibodies in my saliva!  You should totally make a baby with me.”  Along those lines, another reason for apparent “vigor” in naturally created mixes (because usually mixes are not just one generation of mixing) is just simple evolutionary theory: the healthiest dogs will live longer and produce more offspring, so their genetic information has a greater chance of being passed on more successfully and more frequently, such that better traits will persevere over time.  And dogs that cannot reproduce without human help (and usually have tons of associated health problems), like French Bulldogs, will not be able to reproduce and pass on those sub-par genes.  You’ll notice that so-called pariah dogs found throughout the world are very similar in structure, appearance, and temperament: these are the traits that are generally selected for when human selective breeding practices are not applied.
      • And, as an added note about designer/hybrid dogs: reputable breeders will often specifically state that they will not use their dogs to be bred to make designer dogs/doodles/etc.  Some breeders, especially of the more popular breeds used in designer dogs, will even have a clause in their contract saying that they have the right to take back their dog if they find out that you used it to breed a designer litter.
  • *You should be given a physical copy of pup’s pedigree.
    • Proof of parents’ pedigrees should also be available upon request.  If a breeder refuses to give it to you for any reason, that’s really sketchy, and you should probably run away.
    • Because breeders plan their litters in advance, you can often see this pedigree months before the bitch is even pregnant.  When dogs get health tested, their testing information becomes public (e.g. through OFA), so a lot of breeders have access to a function that allows them to visualize the pairing before the breeding even takes place, and some breeders will even post these pairings on their website for future buyers to see, too.  The benefit of “testing” a pairing before breeding the dogs is that you can even see the COI (coefficient of inbreeding) before the litter is even born: it can be easy to tell whether your breeding a brother to a sister, but how do you know the inbreeding level of 10 generations of dogs?  That’s where a computerized calculator comes in handy!
  • *Breeder does not breed for a specific color.
    • Responsible breeders prioritize health, temperament, and breed quality, none of which are related to the specific color of the dog.  When it comes to temperament or the quality of a dog, color is absolutely irrelevant.  Breeders who breed for a specific color are usually breeding puppies for a profit and use the color as a marketing tool.
      • However, some colors are come with severe health problems!  Responsible breeders will not breed colors with associated health problems, such as double merle Australian Shepherds or albino Dobermans.  Responsible breeders will do all that they can to avoid these health problem-related colors (and the genetics are usually pretty simple, so if a breeder claims that they “didn’t know” that the color would crop up in the litter, you should probably look for a new breeder).
      • Note: “silver” Labradors do not exist and are just a marketing tool.  Silver results from the dilution gene.  It has to be homozygous recessive (dd) in order for the silver to show, but Labradors as a breed are only homozygous dominant (DD), which means a Labrador will never produce a silver puppy (for more information on Mendelian genetics, click here).  Some people will claim that it’s a “rare” gene that crops up every now and again: however, Labradors have a well-documented history dating back to at least the late 19th century, and although black, chocolate, and yellow Labs and white, tan, and brindle markings all appear in those records, silver never appears, which means that it was recently introduced as a marketing tool.  A “silver Lab,” therefore, is a mix of a Labrador and another dog that carries the recessive dilution gene, usually a Weimaraner.  Furthermore, “black” Golden Retrievers do not exist.  The yellow coloring of a Golden is caused by a recessive epistatic gene (ee allele of the E locus), which in its dominant form produces variations of black and brown.  Because Goldens as a breed are only recessive for this gene, they can only produce variations of gold (it’s like getting a yellow Labrador, which you can see here).  If you get a “black” Golden retriever, it’s probably just a Flat-Coated Retriever!
    • Furthermore, certain colors within a certain breed should not cost more.  Puppy price is based on stud fees, health testing, and care, and color does not factor into any of the above (unless, of course, it’s a color with related health problems…in which case a reputable breeder would not be breeding it in the first place).
  • Breeder picks the puppy for you; you don’t pick your puppy.
    • The breeder has lived with these puppies around the clock every day for 8 weeks and has been intimately involved in their development.  Personality begins to develop essentially once the puppies start becoming mobile.  Because of this, the breeder should know the personalities of each of the puppies and should know what kind of a home will suit each individual puppy, at least in terms of pairing an individual puppy with what an owner wants in a dog.  Conversely, potential owners have not spent this kind of quality time with the whole litter or even any individual puppy and at best have only visited the litter, so potential owners rarely have the ability to judge which individual puppy will be the best match.
    • Sometimes this is more popular in certain breeds, especially breeds with multiple potential “jobs,” but at the very least, a breeder of any breed should have recommendations about individual puppies (again, since the breeder knows those individual puppies best).

Questions to Ask Your Breeder (if at any point the breeder seems hesitant to answer your questions or avoids answering your questions, this is a red flag)

  • Does the breeder have a history of cancer in their dogs?
    • Related question: What are the most common health issues of this breed?  Note, though, that you should do research beforehand and know the answers yourself, because if the breeder doesn’t know the major health issues of the breed, that can be a red flag.  Also, if a breeder claims that the breed is “perfectly healthy,” that’s really concerning.  All breeds have health issues!
    • Related question: What health tests are being done on the puppies before being sent to their new homes?  Can you see the documentation?  (E.g. some eye disorders that are common in herding breeds are detectible at birth, and a breeder can screen for these disorders.)
  • What socialization and exposure will the puppies have?
  • What does the breeder do or has the breeder done with the parents of these particular puppies?
    • Related question: What clubs/organizations does the breeder belong to?
    • Related question: What are the breeder’s former puppies doing?
    • There are plenty of jobs beyond just sports and showing!  Working ranch dogs, gun dogs, search and rescue dogs, and service dogs are all valid dogs “jobs” that show the quality of a breeder’s lines and can even be  “tie breaker” between some breeders (e.g. if you’re looking for a dog to work on your cattle ranch with you, it helps if the breeder has bred dogs that have gone on to be working ranch dogs).  If you’re looking for a service dog prospect, it can be helpful if the breeder has already produced a service dog!
  • Can you provide me with any references?
    • This is also a good opportunity for you to chat with other owners of the breeder’s puppies and ask them about their experiences with the breeder.

If you can, visit the premises where the breeder’s dogs are kept.  The environment should be clean, safe, and free of filth, and the dogs should be groomed, free of discharge and infection, and in overall good health.  The dogs should have access to clean water, of course!  Trust your instincts: if you get a bad “vibe” from the environment or from the breeder themselves, there may be a good reason for it.

Picking the right dog is important whether that dog will become a service dog like me or a pet, and picking the right dog starts with the right breeder.  Navigating the process can be difficult, but I hope I’ve made it just a little bit easier!

Kelsie Iris


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